Atlantic Odyssey Part 2 - South Georgia Interlude
Well all seemed well after the storm. We were in one piece and off to South Georgia fabled land of Shackelton, King Penguins and Snowy Albatrosses. It is close to 1000 miles from the Antarctic Peninsula to South Georgia so we settled in for the three plus day sail and some serious seabirding .
Antarctic Peninsula to South Georgia
Antarctic Prions were common over the first two days with Fairy Prions becoming more common as we approached South Georgia. A few Slender-billed Prions were seen by some-not by me however.
Antarctic Prion, enroute to South Georgia
I was interested in the variation in the Fairy Prions which can really only be appreciated by studying the photographs. A few birds were very well marked with dark eye stripes and fairly bold neck markings mimicking an Antarctic Prion.
Boldly marked Fairy Prion enroute to South Georgia
Fairy Prions enroute to South Georgia
Blue Petrels were seen in small numbers every day. These extremely fast flying seabirds have a erratic flight are relatively small and a real challenge to photograph.
Blue Petrels enroute to South Georgia
When the weather allowed I spent a good deal of time towards the bow trying to sort out the Diving Petrels. The majority were Common Diving-petrels finally I was able to photograph at least one bird I felt comfortable was a South Georgia Diving-petrel. Photographing Diving-petrels at sea from a good sized ship in rough seas is a real challenge so excuse the following pictures.
South Georgia Diving-petrel- note pale facial markings, clean white sides, white scapular fringes & whitish to pale grey underwing- enroute to South Georgia
Common Diving-petrels enroute to South Georgia
Black-bellied Storm-petrels were by far the commonest Storm-petrel with occasional Wilson’s Storm-petrel. I was a bit surprised by the failure to see any Grey-backed Storm-petrels.
Black-bellied Storm-petrel enroute to South Georgia
The petrel action included Kerguelen Petrels putting on a good show every day. A few White-headed Petrels were seen ever too briefly. White-chinned Petrels mostly without any “white-chins” were ever present.
Kerguelen Petrel enroute to South Georgia
White-chinned Petrels, with and without white chins- enroute to South Georgia
Cape Petrels, Southern Fulmars and both Giant-petrels represented the fulmarine petrel crew.
Northern Giant-petrel enroute to South Georgia
One of the best parts of this leg of the expedition was great close-up encounters with Grey-headed Albatrosses. One adult was particularly cooperative repeatedly coming right into the stern and hovering over our heads.
Grey-headed Albatross enroute to South Georgia
Grey-headed Albatross, subadult enroute to South Georgia
Black-browed Albatrosses were seen each day in small numbers and were mostly adults.
Black-browed Albatross enroute to South Georgia
The star of the show was of course the Light-mantled Albatross which put on a commendable performance. A few individuals had a Sooty Albatross but this was a brief and singular sighting for this leg of the journey.
Light-mantled Albatross enroute to South Georgia
As we headed east we note increasing numbers of Snowy Albatrosses. This the largest and heaviest of the “Wanderers” breeds on South Georgia.
Other birds were noted in smaller numbers including White-headed Petrel and a vagrant Franklin’s Gull which mad a brief appearance a day off South Georgia.
Snowy Albatross, presumed immature male given massive bill enroute to South Georgia
Snowy Albatross enroute to South Georgia
On April 8th we were up early highly anticipating our arrival at South Georgia. The first sight of the island was breathtaking.
First look at South Georgia
It wasn’t long before we were heading into the incredibly scenic Fortuna Bay. There were lots of King Penguins heading towards the head of the bay.
Fortuna Bay, South Georgia
Our first South Georgia Shag came in to see what was going on and several Antarctic Terns including a couple of nice juveniles flew by.
South Georgia Shag, Fortuna Bay, South Georgia
Antarctic Tern, juvenile, Fortuna Bay, South Georgia
“Fortuna Bay is a 6km long north-south aligned fjord. The western shore is dominated by the jagged peaks of Breakwind Ridge. A wide glacial outwash plain, laced by a network of braided streams, lies at the head of the fjord leading up to the Konig Glacier. A large meltwater lake is located at the snout of the glacier, from which a wide, deep, fast flowing river bisects the beach about midway along its length.”
Text Copyright © 2008 Government of South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands
Glacial outwash plain, Fortuna Bay
After an easy zodiac landing we began the hike up the glacial plain to the King Penguin colony. We were joined by many groups of penguins heading back to feed young. A similar procession was headed back to the sea.
King Penguins, Fortuna Bay
A few Gentoo Penguins which breed here in small numbers adorned the stream side.
Gentoo Penguins, Fortuna Bay
Reindeer obviously an imported species can be seen here in fair numbers. A plan is in place to eliminate these aliens over the next few years.
Reindeer, Fortuna Bay
As we approached the colony King Penguins were hanging out,loafing and doing penguin stuff- which is mostly loafing.
King Penguins, Fortuna Bay
The King Penguin colony at Fortuna Bay is relatively small but it is a stunningly beautiful setting with the backdrop of the Konig Glacier.
King Penguin colony, Fortuna Bay
Breeding is a year round process for the penguins at Fortuna Bay. King Penguins have an unusually long breeding cycle taking 14-16 months from egg to fledging. Because of this long breeding cycle colonies are constantly occupied
Incubating King Penguins bickering over turf, Fortuna Bay
King Penguin incubating egg, Fortuna Bay
Juvenile King Penguin creche, Fortuna Bay
I spent most of the visit observing the Penguin/Skua interaction. Skua taxonomy is controversial especially in this group. Using Olsen and Larsson, 1997, the South Georgia skua are Brown Skua, Catharacta antarctica lonnberghi.
This is the same subspecies that breeds on the Antarctic Peninsula, differentiated from the subspecies from the Falklands and Tristan which are considered full species by some.
Brown Skua, Fortuna BayBrown Skua, Fortuna Bay
Brown Skua are a constant threat to the penguins. Olsen and Larsson, 1997, colourfully describe Brown Skua “ as having a diabolical capacity for being a scourge”.
After a few final pictures we headed back down the floodplain.
Reindeer and King Penguins, Fortuna Bay
King Penguins, Fortuna Bay
As you walk along at Fortuna Bay you soon get used to the hundreds of baby Antarctic Fur Seals that are constantly nipping at your heels.
We came across a rare ‘blonde” pup which are about 1 in 1000. This leucistic trait is the result of having a pair autosomal recessive genes.
Antarctic Fur Seal pups, Fortuna Bay
Blonde Antarctic Fur Seal pup, Fortuna Bay
Incredibly an all black melanistic King Penguin was photographed here a few years ago.
As we crept along the beach back to the Zodiacs I watched the penguins constantly coming and going-what a great place.
King Penguin tracks along the beach, Fortuna Bay
Back on the ship we prepared for the short trip to Grytviken. Along the way we saw Macaroni and Gentoo Penguins along many other seabirds including Light-mantled Albatross which breeds locally.
Light-mantled Albatross and glacier, classic South Georgia
We continued south to the legendary whaling station Grytviken. There is barely a single spot in South Georgia that isn’t awesomely scenic.
Entering King Edward Cove, South Georgia
British Antarctic Survey Station at King Edward Point, South Georgia
Grytviken, South Georgia
Grytviken is of significant historical interest having been an active whaling station for many years and famously the burial place of Sir Ernest Shackleton.
Sir Ernest Shackleton’s grave, Grytviken, South Georgia
After toasting “The Boss” we headed into Grytviken.
There is definitely way more Antarctic Fur Seals here people. All most all are young animals. They constantly make aggressive charges but rarely actually bite. They do get a bit annoying.
Anatarctic Fur Seal paradise, Grytviken, South Georgia
The Southern Elephant Seals are far more sedate mostlty just hanging about snoozing.
Southern Elephant Seals, Grytviken, South Georgia
Southern Elephant Seal and the Elephant Seal Whisperer, South Georgia
The remnants of Grytviken are a testimony to a bygone era. Old whaling ships, rusting hardware, whale oil tanks and few old whale bones lingering as a grim reminder of the devastation wrought on the cetaceans of the Southern Ocean.
Remnants of the whaling era, Grytviken, South Georgia
Remnants of the Sixties, Al Harrington & Bob Flood, King Edward Cove, South Georgia
Hopefully the whales will recover as completely as the Fur Seals have- these mammals were on the verge of extinction in the mid 1800s and were virtually absent in Shackleton’s day.
Grytviken has a small but well maintained and interesting museum which of course features a gift shop an essential stop on any remote island expedition.
Grytviken Museum, South Georgia
My visit to the museum was interrupted by the arrival of a South Georgia Pintail at the cove. It allowed everyone a great study
South Georgia Pintail, King Edward Cove, South Georgia
We bid a farewell to the furry local residents and made are way back to the Plancius for a much deserved dinner.
Southern Elephant Seal, weaner, Grytviken, South Georgia
Antarctic Fur Seals, Grytviken, South Georgia
The sunset on King Edward Cove as Black-browed Albatrosses glided effortlessly across the darkening sea. What a great first day in South Georgia.
Dusk at King Edward Point, South Georgia
The Plancius on King Edward Cove, South Georgia
The next morning upon awakening I had a look out the port hole to see the spectacular sight of thousands of King Penguins spread across the Salisbury Plain.
King Penguin colony, Salisbury Plain, South Georgia
Salisbury Plain is a small plain lying between the mouths of Grace and Lucas glaciers on the north coast of South Georgia, best known as the breeding site of over 200,000 king penguins.- Wikipedia
After breakfast we eagerly headed ashore for exploration.
King Penguins loafing, Salisbury Plain
Mick Taylor, Al Harrington, Bob Flood & King Penguins loafing, Salisbury Plain
King Penguins observing unusual wildlife, Salisbury Plain
The beach was packed with hundreds of King Penguins despite the fact we were quite a ways from the main colony. We came across a adult Southern Giant Petrel resting up before a hard day terrorizing the penguins.
Southern Giant Petrel, Salisbury Plain
Simon Cook had a secret location for South Georgia Pintail so a few of us accompanied him and we were rewarded with a great study of a small flock of this South Georgia endemic.
South Georgia Pintail, Salisbury Plain
The next stop was an old King Penguin carcass which was very popular with both Giant Petrels and numerous Brown Skua.
Northern Giant Petrel and Brown Skua, Salisbury Plain
Southern Giant Petrel, Salisbury Plain
Southern Giant Petrel, Salisbury Plain
Brown Skua, Salisbury Plain
The carcass was attended by several different Giant Petrels which charged each other and generally put on a big show. One of the Southern Giant Petrels strutted around like a giant chicken.
Southern Giant Petrel putting on a show, Salisbury Plain
Northern Giant Petrel putting on a show, Salisbury Plain
Eventually the carcass was mostly and we all moved on for new adventures. Lots of Southern Elephant Seals mostly females lazed around. Pale-faced Sheathbills milled about performing there housekeeping functions.
Southern Elephant Seals, Salisbury Plain
Pale-faced Sheathbill, Salisbury Plain
I headed for the main part of the colony and as I approached the density of penguins was steadily increasing. Interesting things were happening!
King Penguins copulating then relaxing with friends, Salisbury Plain
I headed to the main part of the penguin colony which was a giant muddy mess. The colony has a unique smell which stuck with us for day or two. It is a wonder the young penguins can survive in what seems like a cesspool.
King Penguin colony, Salisbury Plain
An incredibly grungy Northern Giant Petrel raced by hopefully on the way to take a bath.
Northern Giant Petrel after mud bath, Salisbury Plain
I came across a really fresh juvenile Brown Skua examining the remains of a penguin. Its unmarked dark brown plumage was shimmering in the light, very different from the speckled adult plumage.
Brown Skua, juvenile, Salisbury Plain
It soon was time to head back and I headed back to the beach observing lots of interesting penguin antics.
King Penguins, Salisbury Plain
A few thousand young Antarctic Fur Seals lazed about on tussocks frequently voicing there displeasure with our presence.
Antarctic Fur Seals, Salisbury Plain
Back on the beach one of the young Dutch birders had attracted a curious audience of King Penguins.
Surrounded by King Penguins, Salisbury Plain
Back to the Planicus for lunch and then we would be heading to Prion Island one of the nesting sights for Snowy Albatross on South Georgia.
The Planicus and King Penguins, off Salisbury Plain
Prion Island is a relatively small island lying in the Bay of Ilse. It is specially protected as its rat free status makes it an essential refuge for Snowy Albatross and many other seabirds as well as the endangered South Georgia Pipit.
A prolonged exploration of the shoreline by zodiac produced several South Georgia Pipits foraging for insects on the floating kelp beds. Lots of Antarctic Terns buzzed us as we passed by.
South Georgia Pipit resting on kelp, Prion Island
We landed on the beach and were welcomed by a mass of Gentoo Penguins and some young Southern Elephant Seals.
Landing on Prion Island among Gentoo Penguins and Southern Elephant Seals
A great boardwalk leads up a long gully by a long line of snoozing Antarctic Fur Seals. A platform half way up allows for great vistas and great views of Snowy Albatrosses flying against a stunning back drop of glaciers and mountains.
Scenes from Prion Island
We arrived at the top of the island and several Snowy Albatrosses were flying around and a pair were tending a nest.
Snowy Albatrosses, Prion Island
The lack of fine black vermiculation on the white plumage is well illustrated in these pictures. Note this feature is usually present even in old very white Gibson’s Albatrosses.
Gibson’s Albatross, note the abundant fine vermiculation, Kaikoura, NZ
A well grown chick on the nest was continuously looking for its parents.
Snowy Albatrosses, chick, Prion Island
It wasn’t long before a parent came sailing in right over our heads landing about 6 feet from us.
Snowy Albatrosses, Prion Island
A pair of Southern Giant Petrels looked like they were thinking about setting up shop.
Southern Giant Petrels, Prion Island
We spent the last half hour of decent light photographing the albatrosses soaring over the island.
Snowy Albatrosses, Prion Island
The dying light and the onset of a sudden snowstorm persuaded me to head back down the boardwalk.
Snowy Albatrosses, Prion Island
The snow picked up and all the Antarctic Fur Seals developed a rather festive look.
Antarctic Fur Seal, Prion Island
A quick zodiac ride later we were back on the Planicus enjoying another great dinner. It looked like the weather was changing and a decision was made to leave South Georgia and head east to Gough Island. I looked forward to some relaxing days at sea on the way to one of the greatest seabird locations in the world.
Life is good...... at least for now!
End of Part 2
Stay tuned for Part 3 which includes our extended return to Grytviken and subsequent evacuation to Uruguay via the Falkland Current a little explored seabird paradise.
Sneak preview-
Atlantic Petrel, Falkland Current
Kirk Zufelt
World Pelagic Birding Headquarters
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Canada